Highlights
Overview
Mt Ama Dablam is a beautiful mountain situated in Everest Region, and its height is 6812 m. Indeed, Ama Dablam means “Mother’s Necklace” since its one side long ridge seems to be a mother protecting her child. The mountain brings smiles to the face of trekkers who become tired while trekking to Everest Base Camp. It is a technical mountain that requires mountaineering and rock climbing skills to reach the top of the summit. Ama Dablam Expedition requires approximately 14 days to climb from its base camp because climbers should adapt to high altitudes.
Ama Dablam mountain is probably the most visually stunning mountain in the world. And most European call it the Matterhorn of the Himalayas. It is a steep solid rock and ice climbing which is perfect for the alpinist. Beginners may also climb the mountain but requires some climbing experience just above the 6000-meter peak. So, prior to attempting Ama Dablam Climbing, you need to warm up on the nearby peak either Island Peak or in Lobuche Peak.
Although the Ama Dablam is a technical mountain, it is not extreme. But you need mountaineering skills and some experience at high altitudes.
Trip Outline
The Ama Dablam Expedition journey begins with a Lukla flight from Kathmandu, and the trail follows the ditto path of Everest Base Camp Trek till reaching Pangboche. If you want to visit Everest Base Camp or summit trekking peak like Lobuche or Island Peak which will warm up for your Ama Dablam summit and helps you to endure high altitude.
After reaching at Pangboche, you will head toward Ama Dablam Base Camp having the best scenic trail and steep hike to Kharka. The trail lets you enjoy a closer view of Mt Ama Dablam.
From the very next day, you begin to climb Mt Ama Dablam and continuously spend nights at tented camps of three base camps. At least, you spend 1 night at each of the base camps. Indeed, the daily itinerary will not be fixed in this period. You will trek ups and downs throughout the period.
- Camp 1 is at 5700m
- Camp 2 is at 5900 m
- Camp 3 is at 6300 m
You need to be very careful while staying in camp 2 and 3 as the elevation is higher. So, Acute Mountain Sickness can be a major problem here. As the trail goes higher elevation, you will face the field more snowy, rocky, and slope.
During the climbing period, the crew members will help you to use the climbing tools properly. The climbing period is estimated to be 14 days approx.
Three things that boost you up to reach the top of Ama Dablam:
- Strength and Commitment
- Mountaineering Skills
- Preparation and Hard Work
Ama Dablam Expedition Difficulty
- It is 6812 m high. So, acute mountain sickness is common while climbing this mountain.
- It follows steep snow and ice slopes on the summit day. So, it is a technical mountain that requires mountaineering skills and strength too.
Ama Dablam Expedition Cost
The cost of the Ama Dablam Expedition varies from agency to agency which also means you need to go through a climbing agency in order to summit the mountain. Basically, Ama Dablam Expedition costs around $6500 USD per person which includes all your food, accommodations, climbing guide, Lukla domestic flight, permits, etc.
Best Time to Climb Ama Dablam Expedition
Spring (April to May) is the best time to climb Ama Dablam since it is the warm season. You will often get the weather better and the sky crystal clear. So, the threat of snow becomes less these days. Besides that, Autumn (October to November) is also considered to be good for Ama Dablam Expedition.
Packing list and Climbing Gears
All the recommended trekking gear is also recommended for this journey. Moreover, you also must bring climbing gear. To get detail about trekking gears, visit the trekking gears checklist article.
A list of recommended climbing gears is listed below:
- Ice Axe with Leash
- Crampons and climbing harness
- Climbing rope, Screw Gate, Snow Bar, and Ice Screw
- Helmet and Carabiners
- Belay device
- Ascenders and Ascender sling
- Sewn slings
- Climbing boots
FAQs of the Ama Dablam Expedition
Q) Where is Mt Ama Dablam located?
It is located in Solukhumbu, Nepal. It elevates at 6812m and stands higher than all other peaks of lower Khumbu Valley. It is only 3 day walk far from Lukla.
Q) Is Ama Dablam harder than Mt Everest Expedition?
Technically, Ama Dablam is more difficult than Mt Everest as it requires ice climbing and rock climbing skills in its steep rocky and slopes snowy surfaces. However, the real challenge of Mt Everest is its height which is elevated 8848.86 m above sea level where the oxygen level is too low for the need of a normal human.
Q) Is Ama Dablam the Matterhorn of Himalayas?
Definitely, many people call it the Matterhorn of the Himalayas because of its steep and rocky surface in just below its top. But Ama Dablam is higher than Matterhorn.
Q) Is Ama Dablam climbing dangerous?
Yes, it is a technically dangerous climb. Don’t attempt this mountain if you don’t have proper rock climbing and ice climbing experience as well as experience high altitude climbing. Many people have died while climbing this mountain. The latest incident of death case in the Ama Dablam was of the death of an Australian climber in 2018.
Q) Do I require a permit to climb?
Absolutely, you need a permit to climb Ama Dablam from the Nepal Ministry of Tourism. It costs $400 USD and a further $1000 USD for example trash fees.
