Located in Nepal’s Everest area, Island Peak, also called Imja Tse, rises to a height of 6189 meters above sea level. Surrounded by the massive Himalayan peaks of Lhotse, Baruntse, and Nuptse, the summit, which is located in the Chukkung Valley, appears rather little in comparison to its height.
Climbers can have a difficult but rewarding experience by taking on the exhilarating Island Peak expedition in the Himalayas. Climbers are rewarded with amazing views of some of the highest peaks in the world when they reach the summit of Island Peak.
In 1953, Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary utilized this breathtaking 6000-meter summit as a training ground. The name “Island Peak” refers to how it appears to be a solitary island emerging from a frigid glacial valley surrounded by massive Himalayan ranges.
Because of Island Peak’s close connection to the famous Everest base camp hike, most people associate it with that adventure. Through the famed Khumbu Icefall and the Sherpa communities of Namche Bazaar and Tengboche, climbers can now conquer a peak and go through some of the most iconic landscapes on Earth.
Aspiring mountaineers can achieve this objective with the right planning, instruction, and supervision from experts. This indicates that it is somewhat challenging with some semi-technical multi-pitch climbing and glacier traversing.
The predominant ethnic groups in the area are the Sherpa and Rai, who are renowned for their bravery in Nepal and as international climbers. Generally speaking, the months of April through May and September through November are the greatest for climbing Island Peak because of the more consistent weather and bright skies.
Climbing Island Peak also known as Imja Tse offers a great opportunity to experience the worlds’ impressive mountain range allowing high altitude climbing and create unforgettable memories. It can bring energy and enthusiasm for you to attempt other technical mountain climbing in the Himalaya. So, it is considered to be the climbing peak for beginners.
Maximum Altitude: 6189m / 20305 feet
Technical Level: Trekking Peak
Climb Duration: 1 Day or 7 – 9 hours
Location: Khumbu Region, Nepal
Best Time: March to May and September to November
Day 1: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding
Day 2: Trek to Namche Bazaar
Day 3: Acclimatization day
Day 4: Trek to Tengboche
Day 5: Trek to Dingboche
Day 6: Trek to Lobuche
Day 7: Trek to EBC via Gorakshep
Day 8: Hike to Kalapathar and back to Lobuche
Day 9: Trek to Chhukkung via Kongma La Pass (5540 m)
Day 10: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp
Day 11: Climbing Island Peak Base Camp and back to Base Camp
Day 12: Contingency day
Day 13: Descent to Pangboche from Island Peak Base Camp
Day 14: Descent to Namche Bazaar from Pangboche
Day 15: Descent to Lukla from Namche Bazaar
Day 16: Fly back to Kathmandu
The adventure comes to end in the 14 days from the trip beginning as you fly back to Kathmandu from Lukla. While the trip actually begins from Kathmandu to Lukla flight from where your trek begins. On the second day, you will arrive at Namche Bazaar – the biggest Sherpa town in the region where you will spend 2 nights for acclimatization and exploration of the local markets and their lifestyle just getting familiar with the locals.
By continuing the trek, you trek moves towards EBC and Kalapathar (the best viewpoint of the Everest) passing few sherpa villages. Meanwhile, you get to enjoy the marvelous view of Ama Dablam mountain. The trip also includes Everest trekking just to ensure you are ready to endure and challenge the high altitude. Subsequently, you will get to experience wonderful moments just close to the Mt. Everest (8848m), and other skyscraper worlds tallest mountains. In between the trail, you will spend your overnight at Tengboche, Dingboche, Lobuche, Gorakshep village. Meanwhile, you will be preparing for your Island Peak Climbing adventure of the high altitude.
After trekking in Everest Base Camp and hiking Kalapathar, you will cross a high alpine pass – Kongma La enjoying the stunning view and reach Chhukkung village. Kongma La Pass is among the 3 highest passes in the Everest region.
Along the trekking route, teahouses and lodges offer the majority of the accommodations for the Island Peak Climbing. After a strenuous day of hiking, guests can unwind at these modest yet cozy teahouses and lodges, which have warm beds and blankets.
In Kathmandu, there are plenty of hotels and lodges to choose from for a nice stay. The cost of lodging in Kathmandu can range from $15 to $250 per night. For most trekkers, accommodations in the trekking zones are their main worry.
Because of the logistical difficulties in delivering supplies to higher altitudes, lodging options get progressively more basic and possibly more costly as you ascend. You also need to spend a few nights in a tent while you are ascending from the Base Camp. So, prepare yourself because you might not get a cozy sleep as you have imagined.
Most of the meals are provided at the teahouses and lodges along the route, which include a variety of Western and Nepali dishes.
You will eat lunch while traveling to your next destination, and you will have dinner and breakfast in the same teahouse or camp where you spent the night. Porridge, eggs, bread, pancakes, tea, or coffee are some common breakfast fare.
Pasta, noodles, potatoes, veggies, and meat dishes are typical lunch and dinner alternatives. Dal Bhat is a combination of rice, lentil soup, and curry.
According to the Alpine Grading System, Island Peak difficulty is rated at a ‘2B’ level. While it is one of the practice peaks that novices are advised to tackle. Climbing Island Peak may be simpler for an experienced climber, but it may be more challenging for a novice or someone with less expertise.
Climbers face a major difficulty due to the thin air at such high altitudes, which causes decreased oxygen levels and higher physical exertion. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is another risk. It’s vital to regularly acclimatize, stay hydrated, and have an even keel to prevent it.
If you have ever been to trekking such as Manaslu Circuit Trek, you might know how to tackle altitude sickness and the physical challenges you have to face during the journey.
Island Peak climbing becomes even more challenging due to the unpredictability and harshness of the weather in the Everest region.
Even during the climbing season, climbers may experience sub-zero temperatures, heavy winds, and snowfall. The Island Peak journey demands a high degree of physical fitness because it involves several days of hiking and gains in elevation. Exercises that build endurance, such as running, trekking, or cycling, will boost your stamina.
It is only appropriate that you familiarize yourself with the time of your trip so that you may make the most of it and maximize your potential. Every season adds a unique flavor to your encounter. Nevertheless, the ideal season for this journey is similar to one of the most popular treks, “Annapurna Circuit Trek”.
Trekkers who want to summit Island Peak safely, soundly, and successfully should go during the best and most favorable season, which is spring. From March through May, the spring season is in full swing. It brings with it warmer temperatures, which enhances the enjoyment of your summit attempt.
You can take pleasure in the lush, varied wildlife and plants that nature has to offer. Rainfall and snowfall are less likely to occur. The majority of the daytime sky is sunny, with temperatures between 15 and 17 degrees Celsius.
Due to the unfavorable weather, climbing Island Peak during the summer is less popular and considered an additional off-season in Nepal. Warm, humid weather accompanied by cloudy and misty visibility is what the monsoon provides.
Trails become slick and muddy by heavy rains, and elevated risk of floods and landslides. Nonetheless, because it’s off-season, flights and lodging are accessible.
September, October, and November are also excellent periods to climb Island Peak during the autumn, with October being the busiest month. Every step is a visual feast throughout the fall foliage and spring’s flowering rhododendrons.
Indra Jatra, Dashain, Tihar, Chatth Puja, Mani Rimdu, and other festivals are celebrated in Nepal during this time of year. You can take part in this festival in addition to your trekking adventure. Snowfall and rain are not likely to occur.
The winter months are the off-season and, because of the unfavorable weather, they are among the most difficult to ascend the Island summit. Noting the extreme weather, heavy snowfall, and increased risk of avalanches and other risks is important.
Not enough lodging options because there aren’t as many available. Having additional gear and equipment packed makes it heavier to carry.
In addition, you may also like to know the best time to travel to Nepal.
Permits are essential for both trekking and climbing activities in Nepal, whether you’re embarking on popular routes like the Everest Base Camp Trek, Langtang Valley Trek, Manaslu Circuit Trek, Lobuche Peak Climbing, or any other adventure. So, you do need to obtain permit for Island Peak Climbing. The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) has designated Island Peak as a Group B trekking peak. Entry-level permits are needed for both climbing and trekking.
Seasons and the governing body in question are two variables that affect the permission fees.
The Nepal Mountaineering Association is the organization that issues the Island Peak climbing permit (NMA). The costs per person for the Island peak permit, depending on the season, are as follows:
Climbers must also pay a refundable $500 waste deposit to the NMA in addition to the cost of the climbing permit.
If you’re planning to climb Island Peak, located in the Khumbu region of Nepal, you will indeed require a permit for Sagarmatha National Park. This is an essential step to ensure that all trekkers and climbers are registered and that the park’s environmental integrity is maintained. Here are some additional details that might help you with obtaining the permit:
Where to Obtain Sagarmatha National Park Permit?
Costs:
You must obtain a local area permit, sometimes called a Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance permit, before starting your journey to Island Peak. Upon arrival in the Sagarmatha region, namely at Lukla, the local area permit can only be acquired. Each person must pay USD 20 to obtain this permission.
Certain documentation is required when applying for an Island Peak climbing permit.
Before beginning the trip, one should prepare the required packing list for the trip. Considering on Island Peak Climbing, you should bring both trekking and climbing equipment for Island Peak Climbing.
For a detail list of trekking gears, click here.
It is essential to have the right equipment for a safe and successful ascent while starting an Island Peak climbing excursion. Securing protection against the harsh alpine environment is as important as improving comfort and performance with the appropriate gear.
These are some of the most vital pieces of equipment that you will need for your ascent.
While mountaineering, there’s always a chance of things going wrong, even if you’ll be guided by the best pros available. Whether you’re doing the Island Peak climb or any other of our trekking adventures, you are always advised to get specialized travel insurance.
The majority of the dangers involved in trekking in Nepal can be covered by travel insurance. Not only does travel insurance protect you against geographical dangers, but it also makes your trip to Nepal less stressful.
Evacuation will be exceedingly costly in an emergency if you do not have adequate travel insurance. Thus, pick insurance that includes helicopter evacuation as well as emergency and medical recovery.
You may like to read Essential Guide to Choosing Travel Insurance for High-Altitude Climbing in Nepal
Here are a few lists of questions and answers related to Island Peak Climbing:-
The height of Island Peak is 6189 m above the sea level.
It can be achieved in 10 days. However, I don’t suggest it because of the risk of high altitude. In order to reduce the risk of altitude sickness, you can add trekking to Everest and have proper acclimatization days, which will lengthen the trip to 15 days.
Yes, you need trekking and climbing permit to climb Island Peak. By the way, all peaks of Nepal requires a permit to climb. In order to obtain Island Peak permit, you need to go through an authorized trekking or climbing agency who is a member of Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).
Definitely, it is a must as you are climbing above 6000 m because there is a risk of altitude sickness. So, you are required to have proper insurance that covers emergency helicopter rescue evacuation.
It costs around $3000 USD to climb Island Peak as you need to hire a climbing guide and take a permit to summit this peak. But these all depends upon the package offered by the agency. Without obtaining Island Peak Climbing permit, you can not go to the summit of this peak and to obtain the permit, you should go through a climbing agency.
Island Peak nevertheless demands a good level of physical fitness, stamina, and fundamental climbing skills, even though it’s regarded as a beginner-friendly peak for climbers with some prior mountaineering experience.
It is therefore usually advised that clients get a specific travel insurance policy. Evacuation costs will be exorbitant if you don’t have enough travel insurance.
Island Peak Although climbing is allowed all year round, spring, and autumn are the ideal seasons for it. Unfavorable weather throughout the winter and monsoon seasons increases the difficulty and danger of climbing.
The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) charges an extra $500 fee called a Garbage Deposit to guarantee that trash is disposed of properly throughout the climb. The whole deposit is returned.
No, you cannot receive the Local Area Permit (also called the Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance permit) until you are in Lukla, which is in the Sagarmatha region.
No, you can’t see the top of Mt Everest from the Island Peak summit as it is covered behind Mt Lhotse. Nevertheless, you will have an awesome view of Mera peak, Ama Dablam and Lhotse.
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